Hola. So, Puerto Rico saved my life. This spring I had become overwhelmed with taking on too much work with not enough boundaries (freelancer life lessons), and I was starting to feel like a zombie in the endless New York winter. Lucky me, there were cheap flights to Puerto Rico and my boyfriend used to live that island life there for a few years, so I enlisted the perfect local guide. This was the first time I felt that "I need a vacation from work soooo badly" desire like most adults do. To be honest, there's so much traveling I've put off over the past 10 years. I've been so deeply involved in the trenches of the dance community in NYC, I just didn't want to make plans to leave or miss anything. I'm feeling some freedom from that in this season of life, so hello spring break! We loved PR, and we'll be going back as often as possible. Rest assured: you'll be so annoyed at me pressuring all of you to go to Puerto Rico by the end of the year.
Needless to say, we woke up our first morning in San Juan to this John Oliver video breaking down the issues of the economic crisis (worth informing yourself if you're ignorant to it...you will be rewarded with a rap from Lin-Manual Miranda at the end). As the week progressed, we had lunches, and dinners, and drinks with local friends and as I peeked into their lives, I really got a taste for how complicated (and frustrating) the issues are. There are more Puerto Ricans living in NYC than in Puerto Rico, and each year a devastating number of citizens move to the continental US, because there are more work opportunities. I feel honored to have met several artists who are proud to be Puerto Rican and are fighting to shape a reality on their island that others can be proud of too. There is so much beauty to be found; it is an island and a people that deserve to be treasured, respected, and empowered.
We spent our first few days in Old San Juan. A lot of tourists stay in San Juan, but they're really staying in Isla Verde or Condado...not necessarily our style. I loved the character of staying in the old town with colorful buildings full of hundreds of years of life and stories in their walls and cobblestone streets. Staying on a strip of hotels doesn't seem as interesting to me. But, hey, I won't judge people for wanting to stay at a large comfortable hotel on the beach. I think it's just a different experience. Even if you do stay in the more touristy spots, take a day in the old city to wander up and down the streets, eat the delicious food, and check out El Morro. (There are even some secret beautiful nooks in the old fort you can sneak into in the wee hours of the night and hear the waves crashing below you and think about what life was like pulling into these ports hundreds of years ago...)
Though I may have had the intentions of sitting my butt on the beach and letting the ocean do its soul-searching work it seems to do so well, we got caught in the rain a lot. And I don't know what's more liberating than walking around in a warm island storm without a care in the world with your love. You can't control the weather, so just accept it and let it pour down on you. La Perla became even more colorful in the rain, though I wouldn't necessarily say you should go wandering around that neighborhood in the first place (unless with a local).
On Monday nights there's a local spot in Santurce where musicians gather to play traditional music. Well I guess it started up with just about 10 people months ago, but now it's a weekly celebration of people overflowing and dancing in the streets. These are the moments and experiences I like the most - it feels like an authentic slice of life. And there was dancing and live music, so I was sold. I'd choose a $3 beer out of a plastic cup at an event like this than a fancy meal in a hotel surrounded by tourists any day. We went from Bonanza to La Repuesta, where a friend DJs for the Monday night party. There was a line around the block to get in! The crowd was more of a mix of locals and travelers that were ready to partyyyy and had heard of the scene. Inside was a full dance floor, drinks galore, and music into the wee wee hours. Yes, this was Monday night. Quite the way to start off the week of relaxation.
We stayed in Santurce a few days as well, which feels like the LES. A little rough around the edges, keeping out the bougie folks, but full of graffiti and beautiful street art around every corner. Also delicious food. You MUST go to La Casita Blanca for a real Puerto Rican meal. It's one of my boyfriend's favorite places, and we tried to go three days in a row (I suggest double-checking what the hours are during the week). Worth it though, and it has a true local vibe. I also may have had shrimp and mofongo for at least one meal per day.
There were so many different things to experience in Puerto Rico, but we weren't in a rush. The glory is: the beach is everywhere. All you have to do is pull over on the side of the road. You can even pull over on the side of the road AND have a whole beach to yourself for the sunset (ideal).
We tried to go to El Yunque one day, which is a massive rainforest, and hike to some waterfalls. However, it was closed that day as they were doing a large-scale search for a missing person who got swept up in a flash flood a few days before. Good to remember: check out the conditions before you head that way AND worth being careful as the conditions in the rainforest can change really quickly. We'll try again next time and will probably be a little more careful.
We finished the week out with friends at La Placita in Santurce, which is a plaza surrounded by bars, restaurants, and markets. On Sunday afternoons, the bands come out to play and the streets become alive. We left PR with some sun on our face, full bellies, and a buzz from too many pina coladas. We'll be back for more of it alllll.
ALSO, we spent a few days on a small island off of Puerto Rico called Culebra, which was an absolute dream. A dream deserving of its own post. So, more on that shortly...
