After some California lovin' in Joshua Tree and San Diego, our little group plus a new addition crossed over into Arizona for the next portion of our adventure: hiking into Havasu Falls.
We awoke before dawn, attempting to beat the sun while heading into the canyon.
Apprehensive and excited, we arrived at the trailhead ready to descend 2000 or so feet in a mile and a half of switchbacks followed by about 9 more miles to the campground. Logic and reason would tell you that perhaps preparing for a backpacking trip of this sort would be wise. Practice hikes with your pack, getting to know your gear, maybe even just making sure you can walk 10 miles easily without any major elevation changes and gear. But for the most part, we did none of this. At least not to the extent that we should have. So somewhat naively, we began our trek high on adrenaline and excitement for what was waiting for us around the corner.
The beauty of the canyon is not to be underestimated nor can I adequately describe it. It is to be seen and taken in - appreciated for the incomprehensible number of years it took to form as well as for the the seemingly infinite time it will last long after we are gone. We took our time making our way to the campground, stopping along the way for frequent snacks and to just simply stare in awe.
Once in the canyon, you are in many ways untouched by the outside world. Your only companions are other backpackers and those living at the only village in the canyon - Supai. After a day of hiking in with 25+ pounds on our backs, we wanted nothing more than to play around in the falls and explore the surrounding area. The color and size of the falls are unreal. They cascade into one another creating pools of turquoise water, perfect for lounging in while resting one's tired bones. Inflatable inner tubes are always a necessity.
After spending some quality time at Havasupai Falls in the morning, two of us made the slippery descent down at Mooney Falls. This is not for the scared of heights and falling for them crowd. The path takes you through two enclosed tunnels of rock and down a series of chains and ladders. At one point I stopped moving, my knuckles white from clutching mud-laden chains, because I had no idea of how to proceed. Ten points to fellow hikers who helped me find my feet (and also offered some exploring tips).
The anxiety-provoking path to the bottom of the falls is completely worth it. The canyon walls are covered by ferns and moss due to the constant mist from the falls. Taking the less traveled path means that there's a lush, overgrown creek leading from the falls. We wandered about for a bit climbing up and over various boulders and trekking through side creeks, finding one spot more stunning than the next at every turn.
Due to an unintended knee injury for one of my travel companions, we ended up riding horses out of the canyon. The perspective offered by being along for the ride is something I will never forget. Instead of keeping my focus mainly on my feet, I was able to stare up at the canyon walls and appreciate what time had created. I realize that this all may sound kind of cheesy. It's some rock and waterfalls, how different could it be? But there is something special about Havasupai. Something that needs to be experienced and felt. So go. You will not be disappointed.
notes:
- know your limits. besides my buddy's bum knee, i saw a girl have to be medivac'd out due to an injury from waterfall jumping.
- horse is my preferred mode of travel. if you have limited or no riding experience, riding a horse for 10+ miles out of the canyon will not be entirely pleasant. you've been warned.
- we spent the night at the Hualapai Lodge before hiking in the next morning. it was well worth the dough to be well rested before the hike. for a fee, you can also shower there on your way out.
- fill up your gas tank before getting off of the main road. for us, this was in kingman. there are no places to refuel once on the road to the trailhead.