trail guide: 24 hours in harriman state park

If you were in NYC this past weekend, or really anywhere on the Eastern seaboard, you may have spent considerable time cursing the dreary fall weather and wishing for summer’s sunny skies.  But Mother Nature is looking kindly upon us New Yorkers because these next few days and possibly (fingers crossed) the weekend as well are looking to be absolutely beautiful. 

As the days get shorter and the temperatures hint at dropping below the freezing point, I've been making a concerted effort to soak up every minute of sun I can get by hitting up the trails on some of the local mountains.  More often than not I find myself amongst the trees at Harriman/Bear Mountain State Park.

At just over an hour (sans traffic) by car and easily accessible via public transit, you really have no excuse to not go.  Also the trails are beautifully maintained by the New York – New Jersey Trail Conference, which means you won’t be haphazardly stumbling around 50,000+ acres.  That being said, there are seemingly endless possibilities of paths which can make choosing a few for a hike or attempting a backpacking trip quite the daunting task.  Since I was just there the other weekend, I thought I’d share where my friend and I went just in case you want to check it out yourself. Disclaimer: it's a detailed doozy - feel free to scroll on down a bit to the shortened version.

THE ROUTE

Park at Elk Pen which is off of Route 17 in Southfields, NY.

Make your way across the meadow to where there is a sign with many different destinations (pictured above). 

Follow the white-blazed Appalachian Trail off to the left.  It is a bit of up and downs for just shy of 2 miles until it reaches the Arden-Surebridge Trail (red blazes).

At this point, you could check out Lemon Squeezer but since we had our packs we continued on our way to the right along the Arden-Surebridge.  Make sure you choose the  correct direction.  When looking at the entrance to Lemon Squeezer, it is the first red-blazed trail on your right.

About a half-mile further, turn right on to Lichen Trail (L on white background).  Of all the trails our feet graced, this was one of my favorites.  We stopped here for dinner and watched the sun sneak behind the hills.  

After another half-mile, you will reach the end of Lichen, turn right on to the Ramapo-Dunderberg Trail (red blazes) and follow it for a half-mile to the shelter area.  Set-up camp or continue on your merry way if making this a day trip.

The Ramapo-Dunderberg continues for another  mile before reaching the turn off for the Nurian Trail (white blazes). We planned to take this route on our first pass but due to a missing blaze and yours truly with her head in the clouds, an extra mile and maybe 500 feet in elevation gain was added to our trip.  Don’t be like us (unless you love backtracking uphill) and make a right on top of the rocky peak.  If you start going steeply downhill for more than 100 feet, you have sadly missed the turn. 

After successfully making it on Nurian, the trail  meets up with White Bar Trail for a bit and at that point it is marked as a black N with a while background since the White Bar also uses white blazes.  It also kisses the yellow-blazed Dunning Trail.  Ignore these two trails and stay on Nurian through the Valley of Boulders until it reaches Stahahe Brook (red horizontal strip with a white background) on your right. 

For the rest of the hike, the trail is pretty flat and it pretty quickly feeds into the Arden-Surebridge Trail (red blazes) which lead back to Elk Pen.  This backpacking trip was short and sweet but not too shabby for having less than 24 hours to spend gallivanting outdoors.  And yes, we stayed out for the night but this could easily be hiked (or run – the footing was pretty solid) in one day.

THE SKINNY

Elk Pen >> Appalachian Trail >> Arden-Surebridge >> Lichen Trail >> Ramapo-Dunderberg >> Nurian >> Stahahe Brook >> Arden-Surebridge >> Elk Pen

THE STATS

Mileage = 8.75 miles
Best Elevation Estimate Using an App on my Phone = 1792 feet
Times I Was Temporarily Lost But It So Does Not Count = 1
Total Time Hiking+Eating+Sleeping = 20.5 hours

notes:

lichen and ramapo-dundergberg involved hiking on semi-smooth rock.  if it has been raining or is going to rain, these would probably not be my first choice.  also remember to look for cairns as well as blazes on these trails as the trail markings aren’t always that easy to see.  to avoid getting lost, i highly recommend downloading the aveza pdf maps app and then purchasing ny-nj trail conference maps for harriman.  you can then pinpoint your location to the trail map should you find yourself in a pickle.

harriman state park has a number of lean-tos that you are required to sleep in or near if you stay the night.  you will see many people not sleeping in the designated areas.  don’t be like those people.  the rules are in place to protect the park and come on now, if you are backpacking an hour from nyc chances are you are never going to be completely alone.  perhaps sad but true.

for more photographic evidence of what you would be getting yourself in to if you decided to follow our footsteps, check out this post. 

if you give a girl a backpack

If you give a girl a backpack, she's going to ask to go on a hike.

You will agree to join her on the first weekend of autumn and she will begin to plot out the perfect route.  However, you will be asked to bring the snacks.

When you show up with the agreed upon food items, she will realize that she needs a bear bag.  Upon grabbing the designated sack, she will notice that she does not have an appropriate length rope.  She will request that you stop at an outdoors store on the way to the mountain to procure some.

When you stop to purchase the rope, she'll realize she needs to fill up her water bottle which is in the depths of her pack.  After ensuring proper hydration, you both will continue on to the trailhead but when you arrive, she will realize that her pack is now out of order and she must re-pack it.

She will be quite pleased with herself and will stare you down as you finish shoving the random assortment of items left for you to somehow fit into your pack.  As soon as you hint at being ready, she will take off down the trail, up and down the rocky hills, in betwixt the trees, and over a drying brook or two.  All this activity will start to make her stomach grumble.  She will ask to stop for dinner.

You will bust out your assortment of snacks – burgers, gouda, olives, cherry tomatoes, grapes – which she will graciously devour and then be ready to take off down the trail once again.  But as the sun begins to set and the food starts to digest, she will start to get sleepy.  You will have to set up camp.

But before the tent can be pitched, she’ll remember that the bear bag must be hung.  She has watched a video on this.  How hard could it be?  She will expect you to take the lead on setting it up.  Repeated throws and snorts of laughter later, the bag will be properly elevated and secure.

The tent will quickly follow suit and soon you will be all snug in your sleeping bag for some much needed sleep.  But now she will be wide-awake.  She will ask you to play cards.  You will strongly encourage her to enjoy a game of solitaire but to your dismay you will be suddenly awakened 10+ hours later to her gently prodding you to get up and catch what is left of the sunrise.

She will quickly dismantle the tent as you curse the cold morning air while you finish packing up your things.  At least you will happily discover the bear bag set-up remained intact and unconsumed.  As you hand off the food to be shoved into her pack, she will mention that she might want some breakfast.

As you hike farther down the trail, her comments regarding her stomach will become more frequent.  When you suggest taking a break, she will have to find the perfect spot.  She will climb up to the tippy top of the hill and just when she reaches the ledge, she will notice that some other people also thought this was the perfect spot… to relieve themselves.  She will scurry back to where you are still standing and declare a new perfect spot.  In the middle of the trail.

She will want to make sure you enjoy your breakfast, so she will offer to make you a cup of tea.  While she is making yours, she will also make one for herself.  With caffeine.

As you sit and enjoy your meal, she will see other hikers making their way down the trail.  Because you are seated in the middle of it.  Smack dab in the middle of it.  She will want to get back on the trail.

As you scramble to follow her highly caffeinated self, she will become ever more distracted with all the sights and sounds.  She'll want to check out the various trees and critters.  She will want you to investigate them too.  As you both take in all that nature has to offer, she will continue to lead you down into the woods.  You will mention how you much you love this backpacking excursion and also state that you wish the trail would start to incline.

When you reach an unanticipated road and parking lot, she will realize that she has missed a turn.  You will have to turn around and backtrack a half mile with 1000 feet of elevation gain.  You will regret your previous statements.

She will quickly climb back up the trail and find the correct trail hidden by a missing marker.  She will claim it does not count as getting lost.  When you ask her if she wants to check the path with the GPS, she will tell you no.  Thirty seconds later she will become nervous about going the wrong way and not making it back on time.  She will ask you if she can check it.  And then she’ll ask you to check again a few minutes later as she continues to lead you lead up to the top of the mountain and then down back into the woods.  She will take you through a valley of boulders and eventually meandering down a gently graded, pebbly path toward where you started.

As you near the end of the trail and approach the meadow that leads you back to the car, you’ll mention how it was a perfect weekend adventure.  To which she will reply – when can we go on a hike?

notes: 

if you live in the nyc area, get your bum to harriman state park/bear mountain. the weather was perfect this past weekend for all kinds of exploring and for you leafers out there, it's almost prime foliage spectating season. you can read more about this area here and about backpacking here.  

i know.  i sometimes call them hills and i sometimes call them mountains.  while they're named mountains, it is a bit of a misnomer to those of you who have experienced the 10k+ variety of the west.  

and yes, this post is very much based on if you give a mouse a cookie by laura numeroff. 

otis pike wilderness, ny

A few weeks ago, I made a somewhat snarky post on Instagram.  I like to consider it more of a public service announcement but regardless the comment was made. It was referring to the sudden shift from summer bliss to back-to-school fall mayhem. That particular time of year when all social media are suddenly flooded with images of beanies and references to a certain pumpkin flavored drink.  It was my duty to remind the interwebs (ahem, myself) that summer is not actually over until late September so pull it together people.   

The funny not-so-funny thing is that somehow we are very fast approaching the end of summer despite what this past weekend's sunshine and heat may have otherwise led us to believe.  Pretty soon, despite my ongoing pleas and constant denial, the air will have that distinct autumn chill and tri-colored leaves will be crunching underfoot.  With this impending doom (I’m not the least bit dramatic), I made one last trek out to Fire Island to soak up the last of what this summer sun has to offer, backpack and obliging friend in tow.

I've written about camping out on Fire Island before, albeit under different circumstances, and I think this may need to become an annual tradition. There's something magical about trading in the hubbub of hurried people and glowing computer screens for a foxy neighbor and the starry night sky.

I need a fair amount of quiet space to recharge from time to time. The sights and sounds of the daily grind build up and overwhelm my senses.  The urge to runaway from it all and start over goes from a whisper to a resounding alarm.  I like to think this is primarily a result of city living but who knows.  Introverts unite?

Much of the past three weeks were spent in pursuit of constant distraction and I am not going to lie - a whole lot of this distraction came in the form of screens.  Due to the nature of my job, it is very easy for me to plop my person down in front of a computer for a good (bad) eight hours and call it work.  Hell, I am being paid for it.  I am being downright productive. 

I have a sneaking suspicion that I am not the only one who does this.  Despite our ubiquitous kindergarten education, when it comes down to it, we are not all unique snowflakes.  OK, so maybe part of that is true but I would be hard-pressed to find that no one could relate to my current sentiments splayed out for you in the ramblings above.  That's part of the beauty of this whole human existence, isn't it?  To know that you are never truly alone no matter how much you may feel at any given point in time.  We all seek to escape at one time or another from the day-to-day and if the news has gotten anything right, it is that we all spend a wee bit too much in front of the ole screens.  It's fascinating how little of your life you need to actively engage in when you always have a computer, phone, tablet, etc. in front of your noggin.

The beauty (sarcasm) of all of this nonsense is that I am, and likely you are too, in the midst of this culture of can't stop, won't stop.  I am totally justified in my overloaded schedule of job, 2nd job, school, travel, family, etc.  I tell myself that it is temporary but the truth is I have a long-standing habit of overbooking, followed by feeling completely overwhelmed by life, followed by retreating into my hermitage aka my brain… welcome.  To a certain extent, I am limited by what I can do to remedy this situation.  I have commitments that cannot be abandoned no matter how much I may dream about it.

So I do the next best thing.  I grab my pack, the bare necessities, and a friend who was kind enough to indulge me in my last minute, plan changing, ferry missing craze.  The night was far from perfect.  Besides the previously mentioned transportation mishap, we also encountered swarms of mosquitoes attracted to our bug spray-less bodies and a fox who was rather smitten with my friend’s boot.  But when it came down to it, it was just what I needed – some space to unplug, the company of a good friend, the sound of the waves crashing nearby, and perhaps even a night cap in hand.

notes:

- i know.  how interesting is it that i am writing about my tour de force of life distraction via screens while obviously staring at a screen to write this all down.  have some grace, people. it's all about the baby steps, no?  well let's call this therapeutic venting and leave it at that.

- if you plan on making your own backpacking adventure out on fire island national seashore, it bears repeating - don’t leave home without the bug spray.  we did and have all the regrets that come with all of the bites.  seriously.  we look sad and diseased and are itchy. oh so very itchy. (more packing ideas can be found here.)

- last but not least, it takes a special kind of person to not only let you nominate them as your backup plan but then actually fulfill that role when previous plans go awry. find these people in your life and be this person for others. without this becoming a complete cheese fest, these people are the types of friends that make all the difference.

how to survive: backpacking in the great outdoors

After what seemed like an unbearably long winter and a pretty cool spring, it finally feels like summer.  And that means it's time for me to dust off the ole backpack.  I have no plans yet for where I might go but the possibility of it is enough to motivate me through these next few weeks of classes.  Top contenders are currently Bear Mountain, the Adirondacks, and Fire Island.  If I took a less realistic approach to my current life situation and finances, I would hop on a plane to the Oregon coast in a hot second. 

Backpacking is not for everyone.  As the name implies, it requires you to carry everything on your back and limits the non-necessities one can take (ahem alcohol).  It also necessitates taking care of one's business in the great outdoors and not showering for extended periods of time… not exactly a selling point for most.

Even with those supposed drawbacks, I can't help but love it.  Backpacking is a great reminder of how little we actually need.  And after spending most of my days in a concrete jungle, it's a very welcome break from the daily grind of NYC. If you are like me and are considering a summer backpacking trip, here's what I think you need to survive:

1. Know your limits.

Before heading out, have a clear idea of how far you can hike in a day and how many days you wish to live out of your pack.  Look, I love Cheryl Strayed too but I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that the safer approach would be to work one's way up to a through-hike.  There's nothing worse than hiking 20 miles out, feeling terribly sore from carrying a heavy pack, and knowing that you have to continue to hike in order to get back out to civilization.  I guess the alternative to this would be to plan an escape route but that kind of defeats the purpose of backpacking a bit.  

2. Travel with friends.

I am all for the solo backpacking trips, despite any prior negative experiences.  However (and that is a big however) if you have never gone backpacking before, I would highly recommend that you bring a buddy.  This will also help lighten up your load as you can divide and conquer heavier items such as your tent.

3. Bring lots of snacks.

Yes, these things are heavy but as a bonus you eat down the weight on your back so every time you stop to refuel your pack magically gets lighter.  In line with this, make frequent stops for snacks and rehydration.  When I was out in Joshua Tree, I came very close to passing out due to a lack of calories and water.  A smidgen embarrassing when hiking with new friends.  That being said, don't be like me - never feel bad about telling whoever you are with that you need a break.  It will always feel much better than the alternative.  Oh and folks, now is not the time to try to lose those love handles.  For more specifics, REI has a nifty meal planning guide and I've posted some meal ideas here.

4. Be familiar with your gear.

Before starting on a trip, I make a list, lay everything out, and then I set it all up, tent included.  I still manage to forget what some may consider necessities, e.g., flashlight, but at least I know for sure that the main items are functional and packed.  Test out your stove and fuel canisters too if you are bringing them.  Also, while it may seem that you need all the bells and whistles before heading out on a backpacking adventure, I think simple is the best approach.  Who really wants to carry a 30+ lb pack on their back?  Not me.  Setting everything up ahead of time will help you figure out what should stay and what should go.

5. Don't take yourself too seriously.

You are presumably backpacking to have fun and enjoy all the awesomeness that mother nature has to offer.  Embrace it.  I don't know about you but I don't exactly look like a) I know what I am doing or b) that I am remotely attractive while backpacking.  And it just doesn't matter.  I mean you want to have some idea of what you are doing as to prevent injury to yourself, others, and the environment but there's no need to project an image of expertise. Live in the moment and just embrace your inner weirdo.

notes:

- at some point i will make a more official packing list but for now here's some of the gear i use and love: sleeping bag, sleeping pad, stove and windshield (absolute necessity with that stove), hiking boots, and winter hiking boots.  for those of you paying attention, yes those are all rei links and no i don't own stock in the company.  while i definitely shop around for the best price, when it comes to footwear i will only buy from rei.  the kind folks there took back my disgustingly dirty vasque boots after 10+ miles in the dusty desert and two lost toe nails.  my feet are forever grateful for the exchange.

- related to the above note, don't leave home without the ten essentials.  youmight want to learn some basic first aid skills while you are at it.    

- i consider myself a novice backpacker.  there are lots of amazing women (and gents) out there with all sorts of excellent advice.  for inspiration, check out April Sylva, Christy Rosander, and the lovely ladies of @dirtbarbieadventures.

southeast asia

When we told you that Santa reads the blog, it was no joke.   Courtesy of the man in the red suit's frequent flyer miles, in less than a week, I am boarding a plane to Singapore and then traveling around Southeast Asia for the next two weeks.  I still kind of don't believe it's true.  

I was last in this neck of the woods with Grace way back in 2009.  She was finishing up a show in Shanghai and I was looking for an excuse to quit my job.  We figured the logical answer to both of those life events was for us to meet up in Bangkok.  In the month between Thanksgiving and Christmas, we made our way around Thailand and Indonesia mostly on the recommendations of fellow travelers and friendly folks who lived in the region.  This is my ideal way to travel - a completely open itinerary.  The drawback to this method is you need a good chunk of time to do it.  As I have attempted to be a responsible adult who pays bills, saves towards retirement, and maintains a job for more than one year at a time, the ability to go off on adventures for an extended period of time is greatly diminished.  

This is not to say that I haven't had some pretty epic trips this past year.  It's just that they have all required a hefty amount of pre-planning, and scheduling, and we must make it here by this day at this time, and etc. When there is all this forethought into a holiday, I can get distracted by the supposed-to-dos and forget that what I am in the midst of in that moment is most important.  Or even worse, I begin to dream up alternative scenarios.  Why do I do that?  Granted nothing ever goes as planned.  Case in point: during #deathbysouthwest, we were not supposed to ride horses out of the Havasu Falls, spend a night in Las Vegas, or hang out at a hot spring in Colorado. 

Still my wanderlust craves a little less rigidness and a little more flying by the seat of one's pants.  With this in mind, I'll soon set out for two weeks of minimal pre-planning adventuring.  I arrive in Singapore on Wednesday, fly to Siem Reap on Thursday and from there who knows where I will end up. 

note:

- these photos are from grace's and my trip to thailand and indonesia in 2009.  in order of appearance, they are the following places:

1-4: ko phi phi don, thailand - yes, everyone and their mother goes here but it is for good reason. beautiful, cheap places to stay on the beach and an island that you can explore by foot or boat.  i recommend both.

5-11: mount bromo, indonesia - on a whim we ended up watching the sunrise over this active volcano and even stayed around to ascend the crater.  bring warm clothing.  we froze until the sun decided to make an appearance. 

12-18: bangkok,  chiang mai, and somewhere between chiang mai and pai, thailand - we met that group of ragtag motorbikers 2 days before that picture was taken.  we all intended to make it to pai but ended up going to a hot spring instead (i know. i have an addiction.)  

19-22: gili islands, indonesia  - these islands off the coast of lombock have no electricity or vehicles.  my dream spot.  minus a run in with a snake.  don't worry - we (the snake and i) were both equally upset by the incident.  the gentleman holding up the tee runs a hostel (funny homestay - he's awesome) and also has a drinking club.  that tee is their official club wear.

havasu falls, az

After some California lovin' in Joshua Tree and San Diego, our little group plus a new addition crossed over into Arizona for the next portion of our adventure: hiking into Havasu Falls. 

We awoke before dawn, attempting to beat the sun while heading into the canyon.

Apprehensive and excited, we arrived at the trailhead ready to descend 2000 or so feet in a mile and a half of switchbacks followed by about 9 more miles to the campground. Logic and reason would tell you that perhaps preparing for a backpacking trip of this sort would be wise. Practice hikes with your pack, getting to know your gear, maybe even just making sure you can walk 10 miles easily without any major elevation changes and gear. But for the most part, we did none of this. At least not to the extent that we should have. So somewhat naively, we began our trek high on adrenaline and excitement for what was waiting for us around the corner.

The beauty of the canyon is not to be underestimated nor can I adequately describe it.  It is to be seen and taken in - appreciated for the incomprehensible number of years it took to form as well as for the the seemingly infinite time it will last long after we are gone. We took our time making our way to the campground, stopping along the way for frequent snacks and to just simply stare in awe. 

Once in the canyon, you are in many ways untouched by the outside world.  Your only companions are other backpackers and those living at the only village in the canyon - Supai. After a day of hiking in with 25+ pounds on our backs, we wanted nothing more than to play around in the falls and explore the surrounding area. The color and size of the falls are unreal. They cascade into one another creating pools of turquoise water, perfect for lounging in while resting one's tired bones. Inflatable inner tubes are always a necessity. 

After spending some quality time at Havasupai Falls in the morning, two of us made the slippery descent down at Mooney Falls. This is not for the scared of heights and falling for them crowd. The path takes you through two enclosed tunnels of rock and down a series of chains and ladders. At one point I stopped moving, my knuckles white from clutching mud-laden chains, because I had no idea of how to proceed. Ten points to fellow hikers who helped me find my feet (and also offered some exploring tips).

The anxiety-provoking path to the bottom of the falls is completely worth it.  The canyon walls are covered by ferns and moss due to the constant mist from the falls. Taking the less traveled path means that there's a lush, overgrown creek leading from the falls. We wandered about for a bit climbing up and over various boulders and trekking through side creeks, finding one spot more stunning than the next at every turn. 

Due to an unintended knee injury for one of my travel companions, we ended up riding horses out of the canyon. The perspective offered by being along for the ride is something I will never forget. Instead of keeping my focus mainly on my feet, I was able to stare up at the canyon walls and appreciate what time had created. I realize that this all may sound kind of cheesy. It's some rock and waterfalls, how different could it be? But there is something special about Havasupai.  Something that needs to be experienced and felt. So go. You will not be disappointed. 

notes: 

- know your limits. besides my buddy's bum knee, i saw a girl have to be medivac'd out due to an injury from waterfall jumping. 

-   horse is my preferred mode of travel. if you have limited or no riding experience, riding a horse for 10+ miles out of the canyon will not be entirely pleasant. you've been warned. 

- we spent the night at the Hualapai Lodge before hiking in the next morning. it was well worth the dough to be well rested before the hike. for a fee, you can also shower there on your way out.  

- fill up your gas tank before getting off of the main road. for us, this was in kingman. there are no places to refuel once on the road to the trailhead.