return to arches

While our first attempt at checking out Arches leading us to Canyonlands, my friend and I were not about to give up that easily, especially since my traveling buddy had never been.  As per our conversation with the always-friendly park ranger (my love for them is never-ending), we planned to arrive at the break of dawn.  With the sun just beginning to peek up from the horizon and the moon still high in the sky, we made our way to the trail leading to Delicate Arch.   

I’m not going to lie.  I kind of scoffed at the description of difficult in the visitor guide.  It's 480 feet up in 1.5 miles.  What they don't tell you is that you climb most of those feet in a very short distance.  Halfway up the giant mound of rock before us and I was seriously doubting myself, wondering if the burning in my bum muscles was worth it.  The obvious answer is - YES.  Delicate is one of the most popular sites at Arches and for good reason.  The freestanding 65 feet tall arch etched into the sandstone is mesmerizing to behold.  Better yet, due to our sunrise climb, there were only two other people there which provided some peace and quiet to take in the epic views as well as explore a bit of the area. 

After a bit of neighborly chats, photo taking, and breakfast munching, we set our sights on scurrying on over to the northern end of the park to Devil’s Garden.  This was the only part of Arches that I had previously explored (by foot) and it was just as lovely as I remembered it to be.  Oodles of arches and just enough scrambles to keep it interesting without questioning one's sanity.  The last time I was here, my friend and I ended up hiking with a father/son duo and chatted about life all along the primitive trail.  Once again we ended up chatting with a new hiking buddy the whole way back along the primitive trail.  I don’t know exactly what it is about this park but it truly brings out the best in people.  Or maybe the friendliest people visit?  Is it something in the water? 

My return to Arches has only further solidified my love for this region and the desert in general.  While before this trip I may have mentioned my love for Utah and its red rocks at appropriate times in conversation, I am now at the point of awkward proclaimer of my undying love.  You may want to chat about the impact of Brexit on the world economies - you know what else has an impact?  Southern Utah.  On my heart.  Oh yes friends, this relationship is just getting started.  Return trip planning is already in the works. 

notes:

arches can get incredibly crowded during the summers and over holidays (there’s even a handy graph).  we left the park around 11 am on a monday and there was already quite a wait for parking at the devil's garden trailhead.   also, it’s the desert.  by the time 10 am rolls around, it is getting hot and shade is hard to come by.  if you’re not up for sunrise hiking, i would be sure to get to the trails by 8 am at the latest and carry plenty of water.

we covered about 13.5 miles or so in 5 hours as we found the trails at arches to be less strenuous for us than what we encountered at canyonlands.  that being said, there are a number of places where you could very easily slip off the side of a ledge so mind your feets.

i really wanted to check out fiery furnace this time around but was pretty foolish and didn’t think to reserve us spots in advance.  if you are up for some ranger-led scrambles in the middle of arches, be sure to make a reservation.

along the lines of the previous point, i also didn’t reserve a campsite because devils garden has some first come, first served spots? so let’s just wing it?  we ended up sleeping in big bertha at a turn off near the 128/191 intersection by the park entrance.  just an option to keep in mind should you find yourself in a similar situation.

the entire time i was at arches, i could not get this song out of my head.  (i'll leave the surmising about why that song would be on repeat in my noggin for debate on another day.)  now for the disclaimer - we here at the lupine blog do not condone violence regardless of whether it is endorsed by your mother.  glad we cleared that up.

canyonlands national park, ut

Last time I was writing in this neck-of-the-woods it was a doozy so let's lighten things up a bit around here, shall we?  You may have thought that when I returned from six weeks in Jamaica I would have prioritized getting my ducks in a row back in NYC.  You would be wrong.  After spending most of spring in the Caribbean, I thought what better way to adjust back to life stateside than by going on vacation.  I know it's a rough life. 

I've mentioned before that I have a friend who's just as crazy if not crazier when it comes to planning epic hiking adventures.    Our current goal is to hit up a new national park each year.   Past trips include British Columbia and Montana but after a couple years of hiking in snow and avoiding post-hibernation bears we both were ready for something a bit warmer.  When the opportunity to spend a week in Park City presented itself, we went for it knowing that Moab would be less than a morning’s drive away.

Since the weather in Park City was expected to be rainy and cold the first couple of days we were in Utah, we decided to throw some blankets in big bertha and head on down to the desert. (I name my cars… I can't help it.  And yes, they’re all cars.  I don't care if you’re a hemi pick-up.  I'll still call you a car.  I know; I'm special.  And I digress.)  Our initial plan was to check out Arches National Park.  My friend had never been and it's definitely worth the hype.  Apparently, this is a well-known fact because when we arrived at the park entrance, there was a long line of cars backed up to the main road.  We moseyed our way in and eventually made it to the visitor center.  I've probably mentioned this before but my first stop to any park is to chat it up with the park rangers.  They know the best spots to check out for the time of year you are visiting, any hazards to be aware of, and are just genuinely awesome people.  Actually, I have yet to run into a parks person that I didn’t like - even the gift shop lady got me a bandaid from her purse!  Anyway, the friendly folks at Arches told us that unless we wanted to spend our day with the masses, we should take the time to drive to Canyonlands.  Given that we both prefer hikes when you forget other people exist, we hightailed it on over to the Needles.  

The drive to Canyonlands National Park is like no other park I have visited.  Miles of windy roads interspersed with cattle force you to slow down and just take it in.  This is not to say that I haven’t thoroughly enjoyed my other national park adventures but hypothetically speaking I may sometimes get a bit more focused on the destination rather than the journey.  It can be a struggle for me to remain focused in the present.  Perhaps a bit of the human condition.  Perhaps a bit personality quirk. All of this is to say, if you find yourself in need of a perspective reset, Canyonlands is the place to be.

After another stop at the Visitor Center, we eventually made it to the trailhead with maps in hand and ready to stretch our legs in the desert scenery.  I could not have been more excited about it.  By the time we hit the trails, we had been in the car for the better part of 7 hours and little miss does not do well being confined indoors for extended periods of time.  We climbed up and down amongst the red rocks inching our way closer to the spires in the distance.  Every 10 feet or so I would stop and say the same sort of phrase on repeat about the beauty of the place.  I’m fairly certain my travel buddy wanted to silence me as I could not help but proclaim my awe of the world around me. The end of May/beginning of June is the perfect time to see all the spring flowers blooming and it is just so freaking gorgeous. It was spirit fingers inducing.  (I wish I were joking.)  Despite my best efforts, it could not be captured by pictures. 

We had originally planned for a quick 6 mile hike as it was already mid afternoon by the time we reached the trailhead.  Given the scenery though we just didn't want to leave.   A few fellow hikers we met along the way mentioned that if we had the time, we had to make our way over to Druid Arch.  We had headlamps and fresh legs so we decided to go for it, effectively doubling our proposed hike and causing some hustle in our bustles.   The trail has a number of scrambles and is not for those with a fear of heights but the view is worth it.  We reached the arch just as the sun was beginning to set, changing the color of the desert rock before our eyes.  

As soon as we hydrated and munch on some snacks, we scampered back down the rocks and hurried along the trail in an effort to beat the setting sun.  With only an hour or so to cover five miles, our steps quickly became a jog keeping ourselves (and anyone within earshot) entertained by singing Disney classics and childhood camp songs.  Just as the sun slipped behind the horizon, big bertha came into view and we full out sprinted with open arms.  The heaviness of the previous weeks was lifted.  

"What makes the desert beautiful," said the little prince, "is that somewhere it hides a well."  

-- The Little Prince, Antoine de Saint-Exupéry

notes:

in case you are interested in following our route, we parked at elephant hill and made our way to chesler park before cutting over to druid arch.  according to this handy map, the entire hike was about 12.6 miles with a fair amount of scrambling, especially as we approached the druid arch.  as with any hike (but even more so with a desert hike), be sure to bring plenty of water, snacks, and sunscreen.  there's limited shade and we never came across running water.  i carried 4 L of water.  yes, i am a camel.

we didn't have time to make our way to island in the sky or the maze while we were in canyonlands.  there are rivers in between the different sections of the park so unless you plan on hiking through you need to drive around.  as each part of the park has unique offerings, it would definitely worth be worth checking it out but just keep in mind you'll be logging some quality time in your vehicle.

relatedly, if you are driving on over to canyonlands from arches, make sure you get gas before you leave moab.  ask me how i know… 

geocaching in the san jacinto mountains

I fell in love with geocaching over the summer during my family’s epic annual camping trip.  One cloudy morning up in the Adirondacks, my cousins and I loaded up the kayaks and canoes and made our way around the various lakes and islands in search of caches. 

In case you have never heard of geocaching before, it is basically a worldwide scavenger hunt.   There are millions of caches from in all different locations – airports, cities, woods, beach.  The easiest way to geocache is download the app.  (Yes, it costs some money and no, I have no stock or relatives or the like in the company.)  For each cache, the longitude and latitude pinned to its location.  Keep in mind that that there is a range of distances, usually within 10 feet, as the pin is only as good as your GPS.  Once you find the area, search all about for a little box or canister.  People are clever so the caches are not always easy to find.  Each typically contains little trinkets to be swapped and traded, i.e., don’t take something without leaving something, as well as a pad of paper to record your date, name, and sometimes a little message.

This past weekend, I headed up into the San Jacinto Mountains with some friends.  While we were hiking, I literally stumbled upon a cache.  It was right under my toe in the above picture (I also fully support nonsensical photo taking, obviously) and tripped me up a bit.  A wiggling of some wood jammed in the tree stump and lo and behold there was a box.  Remembering that I had downloaded the app this past summer, we continued on our way finding all sorts of treasures along the trail. 

I realize that some of you may roll your eyes at the idea of grown people running all over the trail trying to find teeny troves of treasure.  And maybe this isn’t for everyone but don’t knock it until you try it, okay?  There are many options for fellow scavenger hunters, especially along the trails in close proximity to Idyllwild.  We did a relatively easy 5 mile out-and-back along the Ernie Maxwell Scenic Trail.  Since we started on the earlier side, around 10 am, we only saw a few people on our way out.  However, by the time we were on our way back there were many people taking advantage of the cooler weather and cloudless sky. All in all a perfect little adventure for a day spent up in the San Jacinto Mountains.  

notes:

the ernie maxwell scenic trail has about 600 feet of elevation change.  if you would like to hike uphill on the way out and downhill on the way back, park on tahquitz view drive.  it’s a dirt road but i doubt any vehicle would have trouble with the terrain.  if you are having trouble figuring out how to get there or are interested in a ascending one the nearby peaks, stop by the idyllwild ranger station in town.  the lovely people there are always happy to help.

the weather in the san jacinto mountains can vary by 10s of degrees so be sure to pack layers (along with your other essentials).  it reached the high 70s while we were there but i’ve also been here around the same time of year an woken up to snow. 

great falls park, va

I've given up on any attempt to quell my wanderlust.  I had all these concerns that I wouldn't be able to get out of town once I went back to school but it turns out I can still sort of swing it.  Emphasis on the sort of.  Essentially, my life consists of very little sleep during the week, a 24 hour sabbatical on the weekends, followed by an oh dear God why did I just do that to myself on Sunday night.  It’s a really healthy pattern of behavior (I kid, I kid). 

I guess the logical response to all of this would be to, you know, cut back a little.  Maybe I could spend every other weekend out of the five boroughs as opposed to my current pattern of every single one.  Or I could even just journey out a bit closer to home, say within a 50 mile radius or places easily accessed by public transportation.  But where would the fun be with those kinds of restrictions?  I already have two flights scheduled before the end of this semester and another one that I am trying to finagle so my current lifestyle won’t be changing any time soon.  Besides which, without these weekly escapades I never would have found out about this great (get it? I know, I am easily amused) little park just outside of DC.  

My recent discovery of Great Falls Park should not be all that surprising; I have never lived in DC nor do I possess an encyclopedic knowledge of the National Parks system.  Nevertheless, I considered it a great (never gets old…) find as it covers all of my current needs: people I love live near by (bonus points for happily joining/proposing shenanigans), giant slabs of rock to climb up/down/over, and trails that let you imagine you are alone in the woods every once in a while. 

As this particular adventure took place on a beautiful Saturday, it was pretty crowded by the visitor center but don’t let that discourage you.  Stop on by and say hello to the wonderful park rangers.  They will be more than happy to help you find the perfect paths to check out and they’ll even recommend ideal locales for post-hike libations.   The path along the Potomac River is fairly straightforward and the crowds thin out as you move farther away from the parking lot.  I wish that I had known that in addition to the views/nature/wildlife amenities, the park also boasts some great (I’m done – I promise) climbing spots.  All down the River Trail, people were setting up their harnesses and getting their ropes in order.  While I didn’t get to climb with all the bells and whistles, there were plenty of places to scramble and explore.  Since there are only 15 miles of trail, I recommend taking your time to mosey and explore the cliffs and crevices along the way.

The days were a bit longer and warmer when I was there but by now it should be prime  time for leaf viewing, scarf bundling, and post-hike hot toddy sipping.  All in all, a visit to Great Falls Park was the perfect way to spend an autumnal afternoon - go and see it for yourself!

notes:

i try to avoid backtracking on trails as much as possible.  in order to make the hike a loop, you’ll have to cut through the woods.  do not attempt this unless you have a strong sense of direction or are adept at using your phone’s gps.  for convenience, you can find a trail map here but still check in with the rangers.  they’re the best.

for some standard pub food and a selection of tasty beverages, check out the old brogue irish pub in great falls.  after filling up on one too many fried pickles, make your way to around the corner to great falls creamery.

there’s wildlife to be had in these parts of the woods including snakes.  i came inches away from crushing one with my foot.  we were equally traumatized by the experience.  watch your step – you have been warned.

otis pike wilderness, ny

A few weeks ago, I made a somewhat snarky post on Instagram.  I like to consider it more of a public service announcement but regardless the comment was made. It was referring to the sudden shift from summer bliss to back-to-school fall mayhem. That particular time of year when all social media are suddenly flooded with images of beanies and references to a certain pumpkin flavored drink.  It was my duty to remind the interwebs (ahem, myself) that summer is not actually over until late September so pull it together people.   

The funny not-so-funny thing is that somehow we are very fast approaching the end of summer despite what this past weekend's sunshine and heat may have otherwise led us to believe.  Pretty soon, despite my ongoing pleas and constant denial, the air will have that distinct autumn chill and tri-colored leaves will be crunching underfoot.  With this impending doom (I’m not the least bit dramatic), I made one last trek out to Fire Island to soak up the last of what this summer sun has to offer, backpack and obliging friend in tow.

I've written about camping out on Fire Island before, albeit under different circumstances, and I think this may need to become an annual tradition. There's something magical about trading in the hubbub of hurried people and glowing computer screens for a foxy neighbor and the starry night sky.

I need a fair amount of quiet space to recharge from time to time. The sights and sounds of the daily grind build up and overwhelm my senses.  The urge to runaway from it all and start over goes from a whisper to a resounding alarm.  I like to think this is primarily a result of city living but who knows.  Introverts unite?

Much of the past three weeks were spent in pursuit of constant distraction and I am not going to lie - a whole lot of this distraction came in the form of screens.  Due to the nature of my job, it is very easy for me to plop my person down in front of a computer for a good (bad) eight hours and call it work.  Hell, I am being paid for it.  I am being downright productive. 

I have a sneaking suspicion that I am not the only one who does this.  Despite our ubiquitous kindergarten education, when it comes down to it, we are not all unique snowflakes.  OK, so maybe part of that is true but I would be hard-pressed to find that no one could relate to my current sentiments splayed out for you in the ramblings above.  That's part of the beauty of this whole human existence, isn't it?  To know that you are never truly alone no matter how much you may feel at any given point in time.  We all seek to escape at one time or another from the day-to-day and if the news has gotten anything right, it is that we all spend a wee bit too much in front of the ole screens.  It's fascinating how little of your life you need to actively engage in when you always have a computer, phone, tablet, etc. in front of your noggin.

The beauty (sarcasm) of all of this nonsense is that I am, and likely you are too, in the midst of this culture of can't stop, won't stop.  I am totally justified in my overloaded schedule of job, 2nd job, school, travel, family, etc.  I tell myself that it is temporary but the truth is I have a long-standing habit of overbooking, followed by feeling completely overwhelmed by life, followed by retreating into my hermitage aka my brain… welcome.  To a certain extent, I am limited by what I can do to remedy this situation.  I have commitments that cannot be abandoned no matter how much I may dream about it.

So I do the next best thing.  I grab my pack, the bare necessities, and a friend who was kind enough to indulge me in my last minute, plan changing, ferry missing craze.  The night was far from perfect.  Besides the previously mentioned transportation mishap, we also encountered swarms of mosquitoes attracted to our bug spray-less bodies and a fox who was rather smitten with my friend’s boot.  But when it came down to it, it was just what I needed – some space to unplug, the company of a good friend, the sound of the waves crashing nearby, and perhaps even a night cap in hand.

notes:

- i know.  how interesting is it that i am writing about my tour de force of life distraction via screens while obviously staring at a screen to write this all down.  have some grace, people. it's all about the baby steps, no?  well let's call this therapeutic venting and leave it at that.

- if you plan on making your own backpacking adventure out on fire island national seashore, it bears repeating - don’t leave home without the bug spray.  we did and have all the regrets that come with all of the bites.  seriously.  we look sad and diseased and are itchy. oh so very itchy. (more packing ideas can be found here.)

- last but not least, it takes a special kind of person to not only let you nominate them as your backup plan but then actually fulfill that role when previous plans go awry. find these people in your life and be this person for others. without this becoming a complete cheese fest, these people are the types of friends that make all the difference.

watch hill, ny

I've had this post hanging out as a draft for a while, as in a month's while, always with the intention to finish it. Life has a tendency to get busy and messy, and full of people and places, and shoulds and shouldn’ts.  And this space was never meant to be a chore.  We have enough checklists in our lives as it is. But this little section of beach out on Long Island is just too good to keep to myself and with the summer season dwindling down, I thought it was high time to share.

Since the beginning of this year, I’ve mentioned multiple times about school starting this summer and life as I knew it would be turned upside down. (I promise, I'll stop mentioning it after this... I'm sick of it too.)  And it was.  But not nearly as terrible as I anticipated.  Sure, my schedule was full and my days contained much less sunshine and nature than I would have liked but it was manageable.  Adventures were still to be had; they were just a tad less frequent and a bit more organized. 

It was a bit of a lesson for me as I am not much of a planner.  I love spur of the moment, where ever one's heart leads kinds of escapades but I've learned that there is joy to be had in the scheduled getaway.  When I felt the need to have some space to breathe or at the very least run away from the city heat, I reached out to see who was with me for some planned adventuring.  Funny thing is people are more available (and willing) to go along with my shenanigans when I asked them in advance and have some sort of a thought out agenda. Fascinating.

It is no secret that I am a bit obsessed with the beach.  I need sand beneath my feet, sun on my skin, and salt in my lungs.  Therefore it should come as no surprise that every chance I got, my scheduled fun involved sandy shores and salt water.  While it would have been easier to spend the day at the Rockaways, I've found myself drawn to Watch Hill this summer.  Sure it requires a combination of train/car/ferry/boat but it's worth it.  Let's just add it all as part of the adventure.

Watch Hill is part of the Fire Island National Seashore, a unique little national park off the southern coast of Long Island.  It is magical. A quick 20 minute ferry ride across the bay and you find yourself surrounded by sand dunes and pitch pine.  There are no automobiles (save for park rangers), few amenities, and limited cell service which means you can give the beach the undivided attention it deserves.  Summer always seems to short and soon we will be faced with cooler temps and cozy sweaters.  Why not spend the next few official weeks of the season soaking up the sun on a quiet stretch of beach to claim as your own?  

notes:

- to have your own beach day at watch hill, take the lirr to patchogue and walk to the ferry terminal.  a quick 20 minute ride will land you at the seashore.  be sure to check the ferry schedule though - only a few run per day and you will have to make the trek to one of the westerly communities should you miss the last ferry. 

- there's booze and grub to be had should you find yourself in short supply of snacks.  unless you eat at the restaurant, you will need cash but don't fret the little harbor store has an atm.