"These are people at their very finest." -- John Slevin, Mesa Verde National Park Ranger
The journey from Arches National Park to Mesa Verde National Park was not an easy one. It began with the sound of sporadic raindrops hitting the tent at 5 30 am. It then continued with 2.5 hours of driving through intermittent downpours, thunder and lightning, sleet, and even snow. When we finally arrived at the visitor center, the cold rain started up once again as I darted inside. I soon learned that while we had made it to the park, we still had another 45 minutes of driving. Feeling a bit defeated and damp, I eased the Jeep back on to the road and we made our winding, wet way up to the top of Mesa Verde.
Eventually we arrived at Spruce Tree House just as the sun started to peek out from the cover of the clouds. I remained bundled though in layers of long sleeved shirts and fleece-lined pants. Not even the sun could ease the chill from the wind whipping about on top of the plateau. It's no wonder why the people of Mesa Verde decided to take refuge in the cliffs. These alcoves provided refuge from the elements. Even the design of their kivas created coolness in the summer and warmth in the winter.
There's something about exploring an abandoned home that draws me in. As I wandered about the community's remains, I wanted to know what the previous inhabitants lives looked like. What were their routines? Where did they escape to for solitude? What made them laugh? Artifacts can only relay some of the material needs and wants of a people but it doesn't provide the stories.
After the tour, we wanted to stretch our legs and headed out on the Petroglyph Point Trail. Half of the trail is a series of ups and downs along the top of the canyon and and the other half leads you across the edge of the plateau ending up over the Spruce Tree House. If you look for them, you will find the ruins of smaller habitats along the way. A persistent reminder that Mesa Verde was once a thriving community.
If it wasn't indicated with an arrow, I would not have noticed the drawings in rock above my head. It is thought that these petroglyphs tell the stories of the Pueblo people - their history and beliefs. Not knowing the story, I searched the mural looking for familiar images: two kissing birds, a bearded sun, a lone ram.
The sun was beginning to set and the rain clouds had started to roll back in as we came to the end of the trail. As we twisted and turned down the road and out of the park, I couldn't help but think of our ranger guide's parting words. He told of a recent dinner he shared with the descendants of the inhabitants of Spruce Tree House. When he asked his host if there was anything she would like to tell the hordes of people that visit Mesa Verde each year, she replied, "We are still here."
notes:
- we arrived the first day of Mesa Verde's winter schedule so Spruce Tree House was the only cliff dwelling open to exploration and you must be part of a (free) tour. our park ranger guide was amazing - take a tour even if not required.
- there is an rv park/campground owned by the sweetest people on the opposite side of 160 from the entrance to Mesa Verde. if you find yourself in a predicament of having not bathed for a couple of days, they will gladly hook you up with some hot showers. i'm guessing they would probably let you shower there if you are a clean person too. just be sure to bring a towel + toiletries.