#deathbysouthwest

Death by Southwest was coined by my supervisor/work buddy after I proposed the itinerary.  We had traveled together before while away for a conference but those were much shorter trips and involved nights at a hotel interspersed with a night or two of camping.  Our hikes had previously been limited to well known spots with lots of other vacationers and our trips always ended with a spa day.  Fear not, this trip was no exception.  It's not really a vacation unless spa day is included and celebrated.  The morbid label was the result of some additional activities that were about to be undertaken - mainly backpacking 20+ miles, surfing in the Pacific, canyoneering at Zion, and spending many nights in a row in a tent.  But YOLO right?  Isn't that what the kids call it these days?

Because I love numbers and because I think this trip has gotten a wee bit confusing by this point, here is an overview of all things one may or may not want to know about #deathbysouthwest.

THE ITINERARY

Day 1: LAX to Joshua Tree National Park, CA

Day 2: Joshua Tree National Park, CA

Day 3: Joshua Tree National Park, CA to San Diego, CA

Day 4: San Diego, CA

Day 5: San Diego, CA

Day 6: San Diego, CA to Peach Springs, AZ

Day 7: Peach Springs, AZ to Havasu Falls, AZ

Day 8: Havasu Falls, AZ

Day 9: Havasu Falls, AZ to Las Vegas, NV

Day 10: Las Vegas, NV to Zion National Park, UT

Day 11: Zion National Park, UT

Day 12: Zion National Park, UT to Bryce Canyon National Park, UT to Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, UT

Day 13: Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, UT to Arches National Park, UT (via Capitol Reef National Park... we barely stopped for magnets)

Day 14: Arches National Park, UT to Mesa Verde National Park, CO to Pagosa Springs, CO

Day 15: Pagosa Springs, CO to Santa Fe, NM to Albuquerque, NM

THE ROUTE

THE STATS

Miles Driven: 2429

Nights Camped: 8 out of 14

Total Number of Not Named Traveling Companions: 8 (although only 1 made it through the whole trip)

National Parks Visited: 6 (7 if you count Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument; I made good use of my annual park pass)

Miles Hiked: 45+ (the plus is for hikes that weren't on trails per se -- maybe another mile or 2?)

Spas Visited: 2 (no trip is complete without at least 1 hot spring and 1 massage)

Inclement Weather Days: 1 (difficult to label this one as it rained, snowed, sleeted, and hailed all in one day and almost all in Colorado)

Fatalities: 10,000s of insects (may they rest in peace - they stood no chance against the windshield) + 1 toe nail (it fought the good fight) + 1 tent pole (someone learned that tent poles have boundaries too) 

Times I Had to Apologize to One or More Traveling Companions: 1 (no casting bets on how many times I should have apologized...)

SUPERLATIVES

Best Campsite:  Havasu Falls, AZ

We spent a good hour making shadow puppets on the canyon walls.  Don't judge me.  It was ridiculously fun.  Shadow puppets.  Who knew?  It should also be said that depending on who you ask this could be the worst campsite as some rangers' horses were nearby.  Apparently eau de horse is not for everyone.

Most Valuable Gear: My sleeping pad

This was originally a toss up between my sleeping bag and my camping stove but then I remembered the glory that is my sleeping pad.  It's just so comfortable and has the added bonus of keeping me toasty.  My camping experience is changed forever. Dramatic but true. 

Most Delicious Meal: The Maui Burger at Oscar's in Springdale, UT

In my everyday life, I do not like ground meat (texture) and I certainly do not like bacon (so salty).  This burger had both plus pineapple and it was divine.  If you are in the neighborhood, eat one for me.

Scariest Hike: Devil's Garden Trail at Arches National Park, UT

Apparently, I don't like being on top of tall, narrow things when there's a whole lot of wind.  For the record, there were wind gusts of up to 36 mph. Totally worth it though - I will definitely be visiting again. 

Seemingly Longest Drive: Hole-in-the-Rock Road, Escalante, UT

Twenty-six miles one way doesn't seem long until you are bouncing about on a dirt road and trying to avoid popping your rental car's tires.  It was fun for the first twenty minutes or so.  After that I thought I was going to be shaken out of my body.  

MVP: Mr. John Slevin at Mesa Verde National Park, CO

Not only did Mr. Slevin deliver an inspiring talk at Spruce Tree House (go on one of his guided tours - definitely a trip highlight), but he provided excellent advice for a hot spring complete with hotel recommendations. I love all the National Park Rangers but John Slevin deserves a special shout-out. 

TRIP POSTS

joshua tree, ca

san diego, ca

havasu falls, az

zion national park, ut

bryce canyon and escalante, ut

arches national park, ut

mesa verde, co  

And that's it, folks.

zion national park, ut

When we rolled into Zion National Park, there were only two of us left.  We had dropped off half of our posse in Las Vegas and made our way into Utah.  Most of my excitement leading up to the trip was centered around this part of the journey. Not only had I read about the ridiculous terrain that was about to greet me but also I had the good fortune of winning a bet which meant that my remaining traveling companion and I were going canyoneering. 

I only learned that hiking for the sole purpose of throwing oneself over ledges could be a thing within the last year or so. Previously, my experience with rappelling was either self-fashioned with neighborhood kids and trees or was the result of a climbing wall in a gym circa 1998. Regardless, there was much effort to get up in order to get down. It had not occurred to me that perhaps there was another way. 

I do that in life quite a bit. My previous experiences dictate my options. And that's incredibly boring because you lose creativity with your outcomes. You tell yourself over and over again that there is one way, one path to reach your goals. And of course in this scenario your goals are myopic as well since a static route can really only have one destination. 

We were our canyoneering guide's last trip of the season and probably a bit anticlimactic but I like to think we made up for it with our northeast camaraderie and crass. Who wouldn't find that endearing? As the day wore on, we got to chatting about future plans and their tendency to not go the way they're supposed to. And as he shared how his failed plans resulted in something much better than he could have created, I turned a deaf ear in the moment. I refused to see myself in the story because I have my plan. I know the way things are supposed to go. If I dot my i's and cross my t's, then everything will fall into place. And if I don't, then nothing will work out.  Dramatic? Yes. But it's a surprisingly easy trap to fall in to. In the days that followed though his words stuck with me, holding me accountable to the rigid mindset I had subconciously created.

 Work/vacation mash-ups are a funny thing for me because it juxtaposes two different lives - my science nerd life and my let's explore all the wild things life. You could easily say that these two are related. Research requires a certain level of risk-taking which is inherent in the adventures I seek out and lately my sabbaticals into nature have included my direct supervisor at work (ain't no party like an epidemiology party). But these two parts of my life still feel very, very different. My previous and for all intents and purposes current way of dealing with this perceived dichotomy is to divide myself into completely separate entities. I've become resigned to it. But thinking about life this way makes work more blah and play more escapist. It's not a mindset made for longevity. I have by no means figured this one out but at least I've been challenged to use my imagination a bit more.  (PS I am open to almost all suggestions on how to meld these. Emphasis on the almost.)

Oh Zion, you ended up being good for my soul in ways I could not anticipate as I was forced to be outside of my own head and stare in awe at the monstrosities surrounding me.  I really only scratched the surface of places to visit and trails to explore - a fact I regret as I could have used at least a week here... Or maybe more like a year.  Something about those giant canyon walls has turned me into a total Utah-convert. Not that I'm ready to give up my salt water addiction quite yet. I'm just a little bit more open to a temporary leave of absence from my beloved Atlantic Ocean. Until next time Zion. 

notes: 

- we pitched our tent at watchman campground. there used to be a bunch of free spots around zion but those are now closed to protect the environment. make your reservation early - these sites go fast.  

- there are no showers at watchman but there are showers down the road in springdale at zion mountain school. while you're there book a canyoneering, rock climbing, mountain biking, etc. trip with a guide. you won't regret it.  

- two other things you won't regret  - dinner at oscar's and breakfast at deep creek coffee. 

havasu falls, az

After some California lovin' in Joshua Tree and San Diego, our little group plus a new addition crossed over into Arizona for the next portion of our adventure: hiking into Havasu Falls. 

We awoke before dawn, attempting to beat the sun while heading into the canyon.

Apprehensive and excited, we arrived at the trailhead ready to descend 2000 or so feet in a mile and a half of switchbacks followed by about 9 more miles to the campground. Logic and reason would tell you that perhaps preparing for a backpacking trip of this sort would be wise. Practice hikes with your pack, getting to know your gear, maybe even just making sure you can walk 10 miles easily without any major elevation changes and gear. But for the most part, we did none of this. At least not to the extent that we should have. So somewhat naively, we began our trek high on adrenaline and excitement for what was waiting for us around the corner.

The beauty of the canyon is not to be underestimated nor can I adequately describe it.  It is to be seen and taken in - appreciated for the incomprehensible number of years it took to form as well as for the the seemingly infinite time it will last long after we are gone. We took our time making our way to the campground, stopping along the way for frequent snacks and to just simply stare in awe. 

Once in the canyon, you are in many ways untouched by the outside world.  Your only companions are other backpackers and those living at the only village in the canyon - Supai. After a day of hiking in with 25+ pounds on our backs, we wanted nothing more than to play around in the falls and explore the surrounding area. The color and size of the falls are unreal. They cascade into one another creating pools of turquoise water, perfect for lounging in while resting one's tired bones. Inflatable inner tubes are always a necessity. 

After spending some quality time at Havasupai Falls in the morning, two of us made the slippery descent down at Mooney Falls. This is not for the scared of heights and falling for them crowd. The path takes you through two enclosed tunnels of rock and down a series of chains and ladders. At one point I stopped moving, my knuckles white from clutching mud-laden chains, because I had no idea of how to proceed. Ten points to fellow hikers who helped me find my feet (and also offered some exploring tips).

The anxiety-provoking path to the bottom of the falls is completely worth it.  The canyon walls are covered by ferns and moss due to the constant mist from the falls. Taking the less traveled path means that there's a lush, overgrown creek leading from the falls. We wandered about for a bit climbing up and over various boulders and trekking through side creeks, finding one spot more stunning than the next at every turn. 

Due to an unintended knee injury for one of my travel companions, we ended up riding horses out of the canyon. The perspective offered by being along for the ride is something I will never forget. Instead of keeping my focus mainly on my feet, I was able to stare up at the canyon walls and appreciate what time had created. I realize that this all may sound kind of cheesy. It's some rock and waterfalls, how different could it be? But there is something special about Havasupai.  Something that needs to be experienced and felt. So go. You will not be disappointed. 

notes: 

- know your limits. besides my buddy's bum knee, i saw a girl have to be medivac'd out due to an injury from waterfall jumping. 

-   horse is my preferred mode of travel. if you have limited or no riding experience, riding a horse for 10+ miles out of the canyon will not be entirely pleasant. you've been warned. 

- we spent the night at the Hualapai Lodge before hiking in the next morning. it was well worth the dough to be well rested before the hike. for a fee, you can also shower there on your way out.  

- fill up your gas tank before getting off of the main road. for us, this was in kingman. there are no places to refuel once on the road to the trailhead.  

halloween throwback

In honor of all things Halloween, there's nothing scarier than a throwback, right? Here's a sneak into Meg's and my Halloween [2008 Edition]: The Tree Hugger. You're welcome. Shot in our tiny Chinatown apartment on my old computer before the iPhone had entered our reality. We threw together some costumes and probably took these pictures (which we always forgot to do) 15 minutes after we were already supposed to be at a party in Brooklyn. (There may have been an accompanied power point presentation titled "Tree meets Hugger" created for our friends and families in the days following.) I've always loved a clever DIY team costume. Happy Halloween!! 

after the part there's the afterparty... or sleep. 

san diego, ca

Oh San Diego, how I love you with your endless summer. Well at least it is an endless summer to me.  

After covering ourselves in a thick layer of dust at Joshua Tree, half of our group moseyed on over to San Diego in which two of us had to present at a conference... did I confuse you yet?  For the most part, I like what I get to do at work but what makes me love my job are my vacation days and travel opportunities. In the past 12 months, I have been in California for work 3 times and each time I have been able to take some time off and explore a new part of the state. I need this time away from routine and numbers to reset. Don't we all? The monotony of the day-in, day-out can make me feel like it am spinning in circles and never gaining ground, never moving forward. We all talk about unplugging but how often do we actually do it? Which is where the work-vacation combo is key. Everyone knows I am out of town and most people don't know exactly when I should be leaving and when I should be coming back. While during my other work holidays, the fun has always come after the work - in a place like San Diego how could I not get out and take advantage of the beach?

San Diego, you did not disappoint. With your friendly people and gorgeous beaches, you created quite the mid-vacation work retreat. 

notes: 

- a group of us took surf lessons at surfari. just do it. you won't be sorry.  (yes, i'm a rapper.)

joshua tree, ca

The mixing of groups of friends is always an ambitious undertaking. One can put much thought into the symbiosis of people's personalities. Will her go-with-the-flow attitude towards life mesh with his need for a detailed itinerary? Will someone's tendency to make obvious observations out loud drive the rest of the group crazy? The anxiety brought on by having multiple friend groups in the same place deterred me from having a Sweet 16. The what ifs were just too much to bear. 

This trip came about in a haphazard kind of way. I had traveled out to California for work last October with the plan of making it to Joshua Tree before heading home to NYC. Unfortunately, Congress had other plans.  Instead of exploring Seuss-like terrain, I was left with a nice but ultimately disappointing county park - a gas pipeline road should not be the main trail in a park. So when my friend mentioned an opportunity to camp with some of her high school friends before we headed to a conference in San Diego, I was all in before I could fully anticipate what that would mean. 

As we neared our home for the next two nights - Black Rock Campground - I began to wonder what our next few days would like. Our ragtag group consisted of 3 childhood friends, one girlfriend, one co-worker, and one cousin of a groom from a wedding that was attended the previous night. With each of our dispositions in mind, I played out the various scenarios of how our 10 mile hike the next day would go. How long would we last before we all got on each other's nerves and someone had to be sacrificed in the middle of the desert? The good of the group over the individual, right?

But my worries were completely unfounded. Despite our very different demeanors, we worked well together as a group. At various points throughout our 6 hour excursion, we each had our moment of asking each other to slow down, take a water break, and/or eat a snack. And in those moments, no questions were asked.  We all amended our plans to the immediate need. As a result, even though the hike was grueling, we were able to fully enjoy ourselves.  There may have even been some sing-alongs - Down by the Bay is always a good time. Always. 

Cheers to group activities with somewhat strangers and no casualties thus far.  

Notes: 

- we hiked to eureka peak. while it is beautiful, walking 4 miles at a gradual incline in sand is a bit intense.  

- tacos are always a good idea. gonzo tacos are an even better idea.