how to survive: trans-pacific flights

In order to get from NYC to Singapore (our first stop), we first took at 16 hour flight to Seoul followed by a 2 hour layover and then another 6 hour flight to Singapore. All in all that is 24 hours and that's not even including travel to/from the airport. So in order to not go crazy from being in a confined space here's how I kept myself entertained:

- SLEEP: Don't hate me but I am one of those people who has the ability to sleep just about anywhere, especially if that place is in motion. That being said, this last trip I only slept for about 12 hours. Why? I had so many other fun activities to keep me occupied. 

- FOOD: Airlines love to feed you on international flights. Thus far I have enjoyed many bags of honey roasted peanuts, bibimbap, some sort of chicken dish, a beef bun, mini pizza, chocolate cake, some sort of beef dish, and a fried rice triangle. Usually I request vegetarian but I forgot and in the grand scheme of airplane food Korean Air was pretty tasty. I would even go so far to say that the bibimbap was delicious. 

- DRINKS: They love to booze you too but be careful with that one.  No one will benefit from your drunken antics and the combination of dehydration and a cheap alcohol hangover is truly brutal. Not that I've ever personally experienced that. 

- PHOTOGRAPHY: That view from your window (should you have a window seat... get a window seat if you're on a long flight it helps with activity #1) is constantly changing what better way to pass the hours than document it. I'm sure all your friends and family want to relive your moments aboard that plane. And who knows, maybe you'll even capture something on the wing. 

- BRUSHING UP ON THOSE CARTOGRAPHY SKILLS: Countless hours can be spent consulting the various maps now available for your viewing pleasure. Watch your plane slowly move across the screen, check out where the sun is shining and where the night has fallen, marvel at how fast you're traveling. There's even a time to destination clock so you can stare at those minutes counting down and a camera on the plane's tail to watch yourself slowly inch across the globe. 

- TV/MOVIES: Catch up on all your favorite shows and films such as The Science of Bubbles and your choice of 2 episodes of the Big Bang Theory. Ok - they had other options too like Whiplash, This is Where I Leave You, and Charade. But I found myself having to space out my options in order to save something for the return flights. Nothing says high anxiety like the debate over what to watch and when. 

- GAMES: Oh the time spent staring at various screens in order to distract oneself. Not only did my flight have a variety of classics to choose from (Tetris anyone?) but I also had the fortune/misfortune of discovering a new app courtesy of New Tech City's Manoush Zomorodi. I don't think my time investment thus far on Two Dots was the intended outcome of Manoush's Bored and Brilliant challenge but let me tell you I do a fine job connecting those little dots together. Definitely time well spent. 

- THINKING BAD THOUGHTS ABOUT YOUR NEIGHBORS: I spent the majority of my 6 hour flight to Singapore on this timeless activity. People. Shower before entering a confined space. No one wants to be all up in your stink. No one. 

- THINKING OF ALL THOSE THINGS YOU WERE SUPPOSED TO ACCOMPLISH BEFORE YOU LEFT: Now is a great time for making lists. What better way to start off a vacation than to think of the myriad of ways you have already screwed yourself over. That friend you were supposed to email, the package you had to send, the 1,496 things your supervisor/friend would have preferred for you to finish - just mull over those. You can't do anything about it now so this an activity that just keeps on giving. 

- PLANNING FUTURE TRIPS AND ACTIVITIES: Perhaps my most favorite time-passing activity is planning future ones. Sure you just spent X amount of money on the vacation you are about to start/just finished but that means you are in the perfect mindset to start thinking about where you'll go next with the cash you don't have. Most airlines will even help you out by providing you with an in-flight magazine of all the places you should be exploring. I think Italy may be calling my name. 

These all worked like a charm on my way to Southeast Asia. Here's to hoping I have the same good luck on the way back. Also, NYC if you could warm up a bit that would be swell. These bones are not quite ready for sub-freezing temps. 

vietnam

As I type this, I am sitting poolside in Hanoi with the sounds of afternoon traffic honking along just outside my retreat. Vietnam has been quite the whirlwind of a trip. Actually the entire past two weeks have been one big blur. And now as I sit and relax for the last few hours of my vacation the thoughts about work to dos and apartment chores and March celebrations are making their way to the forefront of my mind. Why must I always I do that?  So in an effort to stay engaged in the present let's recap a bit of what I loved and loathed in Vietnam. 

The Good: 

Two words. Beach bum. It's no secret that I love salt water so I made sure that at least for part of this trip we were camped out with sand, sun, and sea. We stayed at Jungle Beach and it did not disappoint - bare necessities bungalow, tasty meals, and good company. We had planned on only staying here for a night but the Vietnamese New Year had other plans for us so we ended up here for three nights which was the perfect length of time. 

The Bad:

I am usually a very cautious eater. I inspect my food and have certain standards that it needs to adhere to. When traveling, I usually rely heavily on street food so I can ensure it's piping hot when it reaches my plate. For some reason, I decided to throw caution to the wind a bit in this trip. Why did I do this? My poor stomach has not been happy with me. Note to self: there's good reason for your obsessive tendencies and be wary of lukewarm rice. 

The Ugly:

I pride myself in my ability to fall asleep just about anywhere.  Twelve hour bus ride from Nairobi to Kampala? No problem. Twin propeller plane with chickens in a crate behind my seat and pecking at my ankles? Child's play. I may owe this to a narcoleptic-like response to motion sickness. I've been known to pass out mid roller coaster ride (this is also a great way to really freak out amusement park staff).  However every talent has it's limits and mine is the overnight sleeper bus. Let me try to give a lay of the land to anyone's who has not yet had the privilege of spending 10+ hours in one of these vehicles. There are three rows of seats and two levels. You may lay down or sit partially up but don't even think about bending you knees. It's not going to happen. Also, once those seats are filled that doesn't mean more people can't fit. Those poor, unfortunate souls must be subjected to sleep in the aisle or squish into a storage area with about two feet of height. We used this mode of transit twice (I know. We are gluttons for punishment I tell you.) and if given the choice I will never take one again. 

And yes, I didn't spend all of my time in Vietnam at the beach so here are some honorable mentions: 

Hoi An is a really pretty place. I mean there's a reason it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The old part of town still has its port city charm and I've heard you can get some amazing eats here, here, and here. The Tet celebrations were still underway while we were there so these places were all closed but I've heard they're the real deal from fellow travelers. 

Despite being told we would be disappointed, we made the trek from Hoi An to My Son. Yes, it's a trek when it's a bazillion degrees outside and all sorts of humid. But even with the heat and stickiness, I would say it's worth heading out to. The ruins are beautiful especially with the way nature has crept in. Also, you can engage in a bit of a history lesson as there are bomb craters throughout. 

All in all I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Vietnam. I'm going to go out on a limb and say we all did. I mean we are already making plans for the next trip because one week is not enough, especially when this, this, and this have yet to be explored. 

notes:

- in an effort to share thoughts about the businesses we visited without these posts turning into one big review, we've created a tripadvisor account. if you're looking for the lowdown on where we slept, ate, and specifically how we got around town check it out here.

- the vietnamese new year is quite the celebration with lanterns, fireworks, parties, hordes of people, etc. before the new year, everyone travels north to their families and after the new year, everyone travels south back home. if you want to avoid major travel hassles, book well in advance. 

- did i mention my mom came along on this whole cambodia/vietnam adventure? no? well she did and she's awesome. as in completely rocked the random accommodations, questionable food sources, and terrible overnight buses. not many people would sign-up for a trip that's not planned past day 3 of 14 and is likely to include many hostel stays. oh that's right. she didn't sign up for it. my dad and i hatched a plan and sprung it on her 5 days before we left... fortunately she was up for it. those traveling, adventuresome genes run strong. thanks, mom!

cambodia

After 36+ hours of travel since leaving NYC Tuesday morning, we arrived in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Our plane landed in the afternoon and by the time we made our way through the never ending queues of health forms, visas, and customs the sun was beginning to set so we made or way to a rooftop bar and took in the views of the city below while we figured out our next few days. 

The primary purpose of beginning our adventure here was to visit Angkor Wat so the first morning we were in Cambodia we arose before dawn to watch the sunrise with hordes of fellow tourists. (Note: It's worth it. Hang out while the sky turns pink and then get a coffee from one of the many vendors nearby. By the time you are finished most people will have left and the sun will have by now appeared providing you with the picturesque view below.)

After milling about Angkor Wat, we made our way to the surrounding temples in the park imagining what they would have looked like newly constructed. The remains are beautiful in their own right with a mix of sandstone and the creeping in of various flora. Still they must have been quite the show as each successive Khmer king attempted to outdo one another. 

This entrance into Cambodia was in stark contrast to the one from history books, the one centered around Pol Pot and the genocide he brought to Cambodia in the 1970s. The dichotomy of the two perspectives brought up all sorts of thoughts and feelings I did not anticipate feeling.   

I have visited a number of similar locales where the memory of past events is still remains etched in the present.  These places have a pervasive eeriness to them that one cannot shake. The mention of Auschwitz brings back scents of mold and decay and the quiet uneasiness of the visitors moving about a mostly barren landscape dotted with concrete buildings. Imprinted in my brain are the images of rooms filled with human hair and mismatched shoes.  From time spent in Kigali, I am still haunted by the cries of a woman crumpled on the floor as she watched the same sequence of film from the Rwandan genocide over and over again. 

I have no trouble in imaging what took place here in Cambodia. I get it. These images already invade my mefloquine-induced dreams without the added visuals. And I certainly don't want to make someone's memorial my tourist attraction.  Upon arrival, I made it clear to my travel companions that I had no interest in going to the killing fields or subjecting myself to another genocide museum.  

But perhaps I have been missing the point. Perhaps this feeling I have been avoiding is the very thing I should be experiencing. We are supposed to be made uncomfortable by these places. Our very core should shudder at the prospect of abject violence toward one another.  

To write only of the genocide would be unfair as Cambodia has made great strides in the past couple of decades and there are only hints of what previously took place. Siem Reap is a bustling tourist destination with a plethora of places to stay, eat, and explore. Everywhere you look there is new construction for condos, hotels, and businesses. And everyone wants to tell you about the goings on here. Case in point:

- That is the change of Siem Reap. It's going to be the 2nd largest city. It opened to tourism in 1991. At that time 3 hotels but now 123 hotels. In 1991 very few visitors. Only adventurers. Because of fears of instability. Only dusty, dirty roads. Land is now very expensive. -- Ma Chhun

- Our government is concerned about the forests here. You see the trees here. They are finished. -- Chet

- To become a monk have to learn many prayer and skip dinner. Only breakfast and lunch. After become monk learn something good. Become good people. Like god. If I become a monk I cannot earn money. I cannot work. If you want to be good people. Not so hard. If not, very hard. Have to work. Everyday. Long time ago we did not have job. No factory no work. Only rice farm. 15 years ago. 40 years ago. We had no job so people apply to become a monk. But now many jobs so not so many monks. -- Vuthy

I did not spend nearly enough time in Cambodia, barely a week and only in three places, but despite my short visit, it has stayed with me. Thoughts continue to swirl about in my head about the contrast among the merging pasts and the constantly changing present. I guess that just means I'll have to go back. 

notes:

- do not bother exchanging your money to riel. the us dollar is the de facto currency in the main tourist areas (siem reap, phnom penh, etc.)

-  we hired a tuk tuk (20 USD) to get around the angkor archaeological park as the temples are pretty spread out. you could alternatively rent bicycles or perhaps join a tour. if you decide to rent bikes, start very early in the day as it gets so very hot. 

- to enter the temples your knees and shoulders must be covered. this is enforced to varying degrees but plan to be covered up. 

- bring lots of water with you.  It is possible to purchase in the park but it costs at least twice as much. heat = dehydration = no fun.  

southeast asia

When we told you that Santa reads the blog, it was no joke.   Courtesy of the man in the red suit's frequent flyer miles, in less than a week, I am boarding a plane to Singapore and then traveling around Southeast Asia for the next two weeks.  I still kind of don't believe it's true.  

I was last in this neck of the woods with Grace way back in 2009.  She was finishing up a show in Shanghai and I was looking for an excuse to quit my job.  We figured the logical answer to both of those life events was for us to meet up in Bangkok.  In the month between Thanksgiving and Christmas, we made our way around Thailand and Indonesia mostly on the recommendations of fellow travelers and friendly folks who lived in the region.  This is my ideal way to travel - a completely open itinerary.  The drawback to this method is you need a good chunk of time to do it.  As I have attempted to be a responsible adult who pays bills, saves towards retirement, and maintains a job for more than one year at a time, the ability to go off on adventures for an extended period of time is greatly diminished.  

This is not to say that I haven't had some pretty epic trips this past year.  It's just that they have all required a hefty amount of pre-planning, and scheduling, and we must make it here by this day at this time, and etc. When there is all this forethought into a holiday, I can get distracted by the supposed-to-dos and forget that what I am in the midst of in that moment is most important.  Or even worse, I begin to dream up alternative scenarios.  Why do I do that?  Granted nothing ever goes as planned.  Case in point: during #deathbysouthwest, we were not supposed to ride horses out of the Havasu Falls, spend a night in Las Vegas, or hang out at a hot spring in Colorado. 

Still my wanderlust craves a little less rigidness and a little more flying by the seat of one's pants.  With this in mind, I'll soon set out for two weeks of minimal pre-planning adventuring.  I arrive in Singapore on Wednesday, fly to Siem Reap on Thursday and from there who knows where I will end up. 

note:

- these photos are from grace's and my trip to thailand and indonesia in 2009.  in order of appearance, they are the following places:

1-4: ko phi phi don, thailand - yes, everyone and their mother goes here but it is for good reason. beautiful, cheap places to stay on the beach and an island that you can explore by foot or boat.  i recommend both.

5-11: mount bromo, indonesia - on a whim we ended up watching the sunrise over this active volcano and even stayed around to ascend the crater.  bring warm clothing.  we froze until the sun decided to make an appearance. 

12-18: bangkok,  chiang mai, and somewhere between chiang mai and pai, thailand - we met that group of ragtag motorbikers 2 days before that picture was taken.  we all intended to make it to pai but ended up going to a hot spring instead (i know. i have an addiction.)  

19-22: gili islands, indonesia  - these islands off the coast of lombock have no electricity or vehicles.  my dream spot.  minus a run in with a snake.  don't worry - we (the snake and i) were both equally upset by the incident.  the gentleman holding up the tee runs a hostel (funny homestay - he's awesome) and also has a drinking club.  that tee is their official club wear.

conscientious consumerism

Last month, I declared that one of my new year's goals (yes I am actively avoiding the R word) is to be a conscientious consumer.  This whole process actually started though just before I left for the Southwest.  I know.  This technically isn't tied to the new year as it started back in October but I say it still counts.  Initially, the commitment was to no longer buy clothing that doesn't sit well with my conscience but in the months that followed it sort of expanded into all purchases.  And yes, I know.  I am intentionally being vague. 

When this whole thing began, I had all these buzzwords of things I would feel at peace with purchasing floating about in my head - ethically sourced, environmentally responsible, sustainable, fair trade.  These are all good things but the distinction between how a product is advertised and how it is made turns out to be a bit fuzzy.  Some companies are making genuine changes toward better products but there are also some misrepresenting their products to cash in on the sexiness of sustainability.  Also, I ran into this personal dilemma of if I felt a company was making changes towards those values should I use my purchasing dollars to support them or should I only buy those items currently made in optimal conditions.  And lastly, just because a product is made according to principles I value, it does not mean that it is well made.  It's all swell and dandy to have a responsibly made item, but if it falls apart after the first wearing, it's a waste of money. So many things to consider.  And all right before a trip for which I needed to buy things like hiking boots and a headlamp.

The weight of these decisions made me even more indecisive than my usual self, and in the three months that followed, I purchased for myself a pair of boots, a pair of hiking boots, and two tank tops. Except for the non-hiking boots, every item bought was for the #deathbysouthwest trip.  Mind you during those same three months I discovered that two of my sweaters had holes beyond repair and I lost a pair of pants (don't ask).  All of this is really to say that it is time for me to take the plunge and buy some replacement items.  I knew going into this that not all of my purchases would be perfect… especially when I can't even figure out how to define what perfect would be.  In light of that, I think it is important when starting an endeavor such as this to give oneself grace.  At least that is what I am telling myself. 

With all of that in mind, I've decided to create a resource list of what I have found so far.   Granted, I am no expert so this list will be subject to many additions, edits, and updates. Please comment/email if you have any suggestions!

hats, socks, and everything in between

Alternative Apparel - long lasting and ridiculously soft tees and sweats
Appalatch - wool apparel and accessories made right here in the US of A*
Brook There - pretty underthings for the lady folk
Buffalo Exchange - sell your old stuff for gently use new stuff (actually any thrift store is good bet)*
Collective - sandals, tees, scarves, and hats from the UK
Everlane - tees, tanks, sweaters with the promise of more goods to come (I'm wearing their tee in this post's pictures)
Imogene + Willie - awesome jeans from Tennessee
Patagonia - all the outdoor gear one ever needs
PACT - mostly undies and tees and they even have a fair trade line
Prana - casual/active attire including bathing suits... and chalk bags
Smart Wool  - love these socks and they love their sheep (or at least are working on the relationship)

shoes

Fluevog - sassy footwear from our neighbors up north (and on my feet in this post's pictures... snow approved)
OAT - ok,  I probably won’t be buying these soon but I couldn't resist adding these to the list; you can plant them and they’ll grow flowers from seeds in the tongue of the shoe.
Oliberté - world's only fair trade footwear manufacturer based in Ethiopia
Osborn - oxfords, flats, loafers, and booties that are not only stylish but sustainable too*
Po-zu - another brand from outside the US and a bit expensive to ship for just one pair of shoes but they're pretty awesome from materials to manufacturing
Sawa - fancy kicks made responsibly in Ethiopia and for sale here

skin

Marble & Milkweed - baths, balms, and butters for your body with everyday ingredients made here in NYC*
Soapwalla - another neighborhood joint that has the best deodorant*

home

Rough Linen - sheets and the like made in one of my favorite places
Swans Island - cozy blankets, throws, and scarves made in Maine
Ten Thousand Villages - they've been selling their eclectic mix of fair trade goodies since 1946 [mic drop]*

some sites on responsible shopping

Good Guide
Environmental Working Group’s Consumer Guides

* denotes newly added companies

an exceptionally long note/disclaimer:

i want to take a moment here to acknowledge that even the definitions of these principles are pretty vague (except where there are regulations surrounding their use - i’m looking at you, fair trade).  while these are things that make me feel better about purchases there are many factors that go into the items we purchase each and every day.  i get that just slapping those words on a product doesn't mean that the people who made the product were treated well or that the environment is being cared for.  and products that aren't advertised with these principles aren't necessarily made by people in terrible working conditions or are destroying mother nature.  i certainly do not want to be denigrating people who are a part of the production of these items.  it's complicated.  i acknowledge that.  i just would like to at least attempt to consider what i am purchasing and the effects of that exchange before it is made.    

some other notes:

- wise words to keep in mind when sorting through all of these thoughts on manufacturing:

“It's taken for granted that Chinese factories are oppressive and that it is our desire for cheap goods that makes them so. This simple narrative equating Western demand and Chinese suffering is appealing especially at a time when many of us already feel guilty about our impact on the world. But it is also inaccurate and disrespectful. We must be peculiarly self-obsessed to imagine that we have the power to drive tens of millions of people on the other side of the world to migrate and suffer in such terrible ways.”
-- Leslie Chang

- Fibershed is an awesome project that “develops regenerative textile systems that are based on carbon farming, regional manufacturing, and public education.” check them out to learn more about the process of fiber to fabric.

- not all big businesses are bad. the Social Accountability International is a network of corporations (from Disney to HP), ngos, trade unions, and government entities working together to implement humane workplace standards across the globe.  yes, the compliance standards are voluntary (compulsory for members) but at least it's a start.

- these photos were taken during a leg stretching moment at a little snowed in park off the nys thruway in the adirondacks.  sometimes when adventuring, grace and i just need to get out of the car, be ridiculous human beings, and laugh at ourselves.  i highly recommend it.  better yet, use slo-mo on the ole phone.

being on a #roadtrip doesn't mean you have to stay in the car... #iceicebaby #slomo #nyc2montreal

See this Instagram photo by @kevin * 336 likes

15 lessons learned from our roadtrip to montreal

1. No need to worry about making your travel plans ahead of time- crowdsource them via social media on your way there! Yes, this little roadtrip of ours up North was pretty spontaneous. Meg and I were both rather bogged down with work during the week- but we were excited to look forward to heading out of town Friday, and we assumed we would figure it all out along the way. We had 6 hours in the car afterall, right? It was a race to the border. With all my performing friends, I figured several people have toured through Canada- so we asked for their recs! (And they were all awesome.) 

2. Montreal is COLD in January. Like so. cold. We kept reminding ourselves that the rest of winter in NY would seem like a piece of cake after this weekend. 

3. Good friends are the most valuable asset you can have. (she said, he said) In addition to our friends directing us where to go and what to eat, I had a friend connect me with her friend who went to college in MTL. Then this friend said her sister still lived there and said we could stay with her. Before we knew it- 6 hours later, we were meeting a group of people for dumplings in Montreal's Chinatown. (The perfect warm-up for the coldest weekend ever.) We got to stay in a beautiful apartment in Plateau with a lovely host- beating any other hostel or Air BNB options we were considering. 

4. We can still barhop with the college kids. So this friend of a friend's sister we met up with (and crashed with) - to our surprise was still in college! We tried not to give away our age to much... and to our surprise kept up to the bar crawl. Again, it kept us warm :) 

5. Drunk bagels replace drunk pizza. This is one of the most important lessons. Our host took us to the famous St Viateur bagel shop at the end of our night of drinking to get fresh 3am bagels. It's a similar satisfaction to grabbing a slice of pizza on the way home from a night out in NYC, but you get a few extra for breakfast in the morning. Montreal bagels are definitely a thing. 

6. Hospitality inspires hospitality. Yes, our last-minute volunteer host was so lovely, we totally offered to host her and her friends when they come to NYC. Isn't that the best way to bread community? Welcoming someone into your home? (Take that Facebook.)

7. Sometimes not having a plan is a good thing. It allows you to follow locals' advice and not be so tied to expectations for what you're supposed to do in a certain place. (Note: Frida the Fiat is a fan of this.) Experiencing a new city through an open itinerary of choosing your own adventure versus a laundry list of what books and experts have told us to do is highly recommended. 

8. Montreal is highly caffeinated. Cafe culture is cozy and everywhere. Lattes, lattes, and more lattes. They're another perfect indoor escape when the cold was too unbearable. Which, let's be serious, was every couple of blocks. 

9. Eva B's is heaven. The most heavenly off all thrift stores. They hand you hot apple cider in shot glasses and popcorn when you enter, they have several floors of treasures to dig through, and they have a pretty amazing costume rental closet to play dress-up in in the basement. 

10. POUTINE is deadly and amazing all at the same time. French fries covered in gravy, cheese curds, and usually an assortment of meat is kind of irresistible. I just don't know if my body could handle eating that regularly. There is always a line just to get into La Banquise...

11.  Yes, it's true. Hockey is a thing in Canada. In every bar and cafe. When in Canada...

12. It is a challenge to eat anything but carbs and cheese. Our final meal before the roadtrip back to NYC was a desperate plea for something other than cheese and carbs. (Brunch at Le Cartet had a full delicious menu, but after 36 hours full of bagels, poutine, lattes, and more bagels, fruit was looking rather divine.)

13. Driving in the rain is best with 90s radio blasting. Refer to Pandora. Turn it up. And BELTTTT.

14. Roadtrips don't mean you stay in the car the whole time. The journey is the destination... Stretch yo legs!! 

15. You can't really use the excuse of not having enough money to get out of town (or the country). Dusty passports are so lame.

notes:

- igloo fest is a thing. maybe next time?

- you can never bring too many layers of clothing to canada in the winter. i really don’t know how people survive there.